The hustle and bustle of Istanbul—one of the world’s most iconic cities—often conceals a tranquil paradise lying just off its coastline: the Princes’ Islands (Turkish: Prens Adaları). Officially called Adalar (simply meaning “Islands” in Turkish), this archipelago in the Sea of Marmara offers a serene retreat from the city’s frenetic energy. With a history stretching back to Byzantine times, a unique ban on most motor vehicles, and enchanting pine forests dotted with Victorian-era mansions, the Princes’ Islands have become a much-loved refuge for both locals and international tourists. This guide will introduce you to the origins, heritage, and must-see highlights of these nine islands—particularly the four largest: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada.
1. A Brief Overview of the Princes’ Islands
The Princes’ Islands, or Prens Adaları in Turkish, form an archipelago in the Sea of Marmara, southeast of Istanbul’s shores. The nine islands that make up the district of Adalar are:
1. Büyükada
2. Heybeliada
3. Burgazada
4. Kınalıada
5. Sedef Adası
6. Yassıada
7. Sivriada
8. Kaşık Adası
9. Tavşan Adası
Collectively, they span about 11 square kilometers, with a permanent population of around 16,690 (2022). Despite their small size, they boast a fascinating history, having served as places of exile for Byzantine and Ottoman royalty—hence the moniker “Islands of the Princes.” Today, the Princes’ Islands are cherished for their natural beauty, elegant architecture, and slow pace of life—a stark contrast to the busy streets of Istanbul.
Why Visit the Princes’ Islands?
• Tranquil atmosphere: Few vehicles are allowed, providing an escape from Istanbul’s noise and traffic.
• Rich history: From Byzantine monasteries to Victorian-era mansions, each island retains its own cultural tapestry.
• Scenic beauty: Pine forests, panoramic sea views, and charming waterfront cafes make for a perfect day trip or weekend getaway.
• Proximity: Ferries connect the islands to both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, making them accessible in under an hour (depending on your chosen ferry service).
Whether you’re an architecture lover, history buff, or simply searching for a calm respite in the midst of a dynamic metropolis, the Princes’ Islands deliver on all fronts.
2. Historical Backdrop: From Exile to Exquisite Resort
Byzantine and Ottoman Roots
During the Byzantine Empire, the islands were used to exile princes, aristocrats, and even emperors who had fallen out of favor. Empresses Irene, Euphrosyne, and other key figures spent time in these secluded island convents. After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople (now Istanbul) in 1453, members of the Ottoman imperial family were similarly exiled here, continuing the islands’ role as refuges—and sometimes prisons—for royalty.
During the 19th century, the Princes’ Islands underwent a transformation as wealthy Istanbulites, particularly from the Greek, Armenian, and Jewish communities, built summer homes to enjoy the fresh sea breeze and mild climate. The 19th and early 20th centuries saw the construction of ornate wooden mansions, many of which you can still admire today.
Modern Developments
With the foundation of the Turkish Republic in the early 20th century, the islands witnessed a demographic shift, gradually becoming more ethnically Turkish, although they remain a tapestry of multicultural heritage. Today, remnants of Greek Orthodox, Armenian, and other communities remain, mostly in the form of churches, monasteries, and cultural events that take place during the summer.
The ban on private motorized vehicles significantly contributes to preserving the idyllic atmosphere. While battery-powered electric vehicles have largely replaced the once-ubiquitous horse-drawn carriages, visitors still get to explore the quiet streets by foot or bicycle.
3. Island-by-Island Guide
While there are nine islands in total, four of them—Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada—are the primary tourist destinations. Below is a closer look at each island, along with highlights of the smaller islets.
3.1. Büyükada (Prinkipos)
Büyükada (Turkish for “Big Island”) is the largest and most visited of the Princes’ Islands, covering about 5.46 square kilometers. Expect to see:
• Ottoman-Era Mansions: Stroll along narrow streets lined with splendid wooden villas displaying charming bay windows and intricate woodwork. These Victorian-era houses reflect the island’s former glory days and remain among the most photographed landmarks in Istanbul.
• Aya Yorgi Church and Monastery: Perched atop one of the island’s two main hills, this ancient church dates back to the sixth century. A short hike (or an electric vehicle ride part of the way) will reward you with panoramic views of the surrounding sea and neighboring islands.
• Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage: Renowned as the largest wooden building in Europe and the second-largest wooden structure in the world, it now hosts the Prinkipo Environmental Center and cultural events.
• Splendid Palace Hotel: Opened in 1908, this historic hotel is emblematic of the island’s glamorous past. Its architecture and interior design reflect both European and Ottoman influences.
Things to Do on Büyükada
1. Rent a Bicycle: Biking is a popular activity, allowing you to explore the island’s scenic pathways at your own pace.
2. Enjoy Local Eateries: Sample fresh seafood in waterfront restaurants near the ferry port, or grab a quick snack of simit (sesame bagel) and tea at a local cafe.
3. Swim and Sunbathe: In summer, head to one of the island’s private beach clubs for a refreshing dip in the Sea of Marmara.
3.2. Heybeliada (Halki)
Heybeliada (Turkish for “Saddlebag Island”) is the second largest of the Princes’ Islands. Its official Greek name, Chalki (also spelled Halki), harkens back to centuries-old traditions and architecture.
• Halki Seminary: This 11th-century monastery complex sits on a hill and formerly served as the only Greek Orthodox seminary in Turkey. Though closed since 1971, the site still draws religious and historical tourism.
• Naval Cadet School: On approach to Heybeliada’s ferry port, you can’t miss the imposing Naval Cadet School. It houses the Kamariotissa church, the last Byzantine church built before the Ottoman conquest, and the tomb of Edward Barton, the second English Ambassador to Constantinople during Elizabeth I’s reign.
• Forests and Beaches: Heybeliada has lush pine groves ideal for picnics, and small beaches that open in the warmer months.
Things to Do on Heybeliada
1. Island Walks: Enjoy a quiet nature walk or hike up the island’s gentle hills for mesmerizing views of Istanbul’s skyline in the distance.
2. Visit Religious Sites: Even though the seminary is closed, you can admire its architecture from the outside. There are also several Greek Orthodox churches and a small Catholic chapel worth exploring.
3. Sunset at Waterfront Cafes: Unwind with Turkish tea or a cold drink while watching the sun dip beneath the Marmara Sea.
3.3. Burgazada (Antigoni)
Burgazada (from the Greek Antigonē, named after Demetrius I’s father, Antigonus) is the third largest island, characterized by its single prominent hill and a relaxed atmosphere.
• Sait Faik Abasıyanık Museum: The famous Turkish short story writer lived on Burgazada, and his former residence now serves as a museum. Fans of Turkish literature will find this especially fascinating.
• Kalpazankaya: Literally “Counterfeiter’s Rock,” this viewpoint is a local favorite for its sweeping sea views. A statue of Sait Faik Abasıyanık, with a glass of rakı on hand, is perched overlooking the sea in tribute to the writer.
• Jewish Heritage: Until the mid-20th century, Burgazada had a sizeable Jewish community. While it has decreased in number, you can still spot synagogues and other remnants of that era.
Things to Do on Burgazada
1. Leisurely Lunch: Burgazada’s waterfront restaurants serve fresh fish and traditional meze plates. Enjoy a laid-back lunch while watching ferries glide across the sea.
2. Swimming Spots: Kalpazankaya is also a good area for swimming in calmer waters, especially during early morning hours.
3. Photography: The island’s blend of architectural styles—from Byzantine ruins to modern villas—creates endless photo opportunities.
3.4. Kınalıada (Proti)
Closest to the Istanbul mainland is Kınalıada (Turkish for “Henna Island,” referencing the island’s reddish soil). Historically, it served as a frequent place of exile during the Byzantine Empire.
• Lesser Known: Compared to Büyükada and Heybeliada, Kınalıada sees fewer crowds, making it ideal for those seeking tranquility.
• Armenian Legacy: Kınalıada was once a popular summer spot for Istanbul’s Armenian community. You’ll find an Armenian church and summer residences attesting to this heritage.
• Scenic Shoreline: The island’s rocky beaches and gentle slopes offer a quieter swimming experience than some of the larger islands.
Things to Do on Kınalıada
1. Beach Day: Kınalıada has smaller, often less crowded beaches. It’s a pleasant escape for a day of sun and sea.
2. Hilltop Abbey: Explore the remnants of historical abbeys and monasteries situated on the island’s higher ground.
3. Local Eateries: Kınalıada has quaint cafes and teahouses near the ferry terminal, serving Turkish pastries and refreshing cold drinks.
3.5. The Smaller Islands: Sedef, Yassıada, Sivriada, Kaşık, and Tavşan
• Sedef Adası (Terebinthos): Primarily privately owned, this island features pine forests planted by its former owner, Şehsuvar Menemencioğlu. A small public beach welcomes day-trippers.
• Yassıada (Plati): Famously used for the 1960 military coup trials against Turkey’s former ruling party (the Democrat Party). Now a popular spot for scuba divers due to its underwater landscapes.
• Sivriada (Oxeia): Completely uninhabited today, it has Byzantine ruins, including a ninth-century monastery. Adventurous travelers sometimes visit by private boat or for scuba diving excursions.
• Kaşık Adası (Pita): Nicknamed “Spoon Island” because of its spoon-like shape, it’s one of the smallest in the chain. Mostly private, it’s managed by the Burgazada neighborhood.
• Tavşan Adası (Neandros): Also extremely small, translating to “Rabbit Island” because of the rabbits that once inhabited it. Best visited by private boat tour.
4. Getting There: Ferry Services and Practical Tips
4.1. Ferries from Istanbul
The Princes’ Islands are easily accessible by ferry from both the European side (Beşiktaş, Kabataş) and the Asian side (Bostancı, Kadıköy, Kartal, and Maltepe). Multiple ferry companies operate throughout the year, and schedules can vary, so always check online or at local piers in advance.
• Travel Time: About 25 minutes by fast ferry or 40–60 minutes by regular ferry (vapur). The distance to each island differs, with Kınalıada being the closest and Büyükada typically the final stop.
• Fare and Payment: Most ferries accept the Istanbulkart, the city’s public transport card. Single-use tickets are also available.
4.2. Seasonal Considerations
• Summer: The islands can get crowded, especially on weekends and public holidays. Ferries may run more frequently during peak season.
• Spring/Autumn: Mild temperatures, fewer tourists, and pleasant sea views make these seasons ideal for a more peaceful trip. The occasional storm can disrupt ferry schedules, so have a backup plan.
• Winter: The islands are almost deserted. In rough weather, ferry services may be canceled entirely, cutting off the islands from the mainland.
4.3. Island Transportation
Once you arrive, you’ll notice an absence of private cars. Instead, you’ll see:
• Bicycles: A popular way to explore. Many rental shops near the ferry docks offer hourly or daily rates.
• Electric Vehicles (Island Taxis): Battery-powered cars function like taxis and also offer sightseeing tours.
• Walking: Most islands are small enough to explore on foot, especially if you enjoy leisurely strolls.
5. Things to Do and See
5.1. Historical and Cultural Landmarks
• Churches and Monasteries: Whether it’s the Aya Yorgi Church on Büyükada or the Halki Seminary on Heybeliada, the islands abound with religious sites that reveal Istanbul’s diverse cultural tapestry.
• Museums: The Sait Faik Abasıyanık Museum on Burgazada and the Museum of the Princes’ Islands on Büyükada are prime stops for those wanting to delve deeper into local history and literature.
5.2. Outdoor Activities
• Cycling: Circumnavigate the larger islands on a bike, stopping at viewpoints and hidden coves along the way.
• Hiking: Take the footpaths through pine forests, especially on Büyükada and Heybeliada, where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the Sea of Marmara.
• Swimming and Water Sports: Private beach clubs offer deck chairs, umbrellas, and sometimes watersports like kayaking or paddleboarding.
5.3. Culinary Experiences
• Seafood: The Princes’ Islands are famous for their freshly caught fish. Grilled sea bream (çipura), bluefish (lüfer), and meze (small plates) are staples on most island menus.
• Local Delicacies: Sample lokma (fried dough pastries drizzled with syrup) from street vendors, or indulge in an ice cream break, as many shops make their own versions of dondurma (Turkish ice cream).
• Tea Gardens: Picturesque tea gardens overlooking the sea are perfect for sipping traditional Turkish tea while enjoying the mild island breeze.
6. Where to Stay
While many visitors come on day trips, you can also spend a night or two to fully soak in the islands’ peaceful ambience.
• Historic Hotels: Places like the Splendid Palace Hotel on Büyükada offer a glimpse into the island’s opulent past.
• Boutique Guesthouses: Several renovated Ottoman-era mansions have been converted into cozy guesthouses, each with its own unique charm.
• Modern Apartments: For a more budget-friendly option, rent a small apartment or stay at a modest bed-and-breakfast.
It’s recommended to book accommodations in advance during the high season, especially between June and September.
7. Responsible Tourism
7.1. Protecting the Environment
The Princes’ Islands are cherished for their natural beauty—pine forests, wildlife, and pristine shorelines. Visitors can help preserve this environment by:
• Avoiding Litter: Dispose of trash in designated bins and refrain from leaving plastic or other waste on the beaches or in the forests.
• Respecting Wildlife: The islands are home to various bird species and stray cats and dogs. Observe animals from a distance and don’t feed them unhealthy human food.
• Saving Resources: Water is a precious resource on the islands. Use it sparingly, especially if you’re staying overnight.
7.2. Cultural Sensitivity
• Dress Respectfully: When visiting churches, monasteries, or other religious sites, dress modestly.
• Maintain Quiet: Many locals value the islands’ peaceful setting. Avoid loud music or behavior that disturbs others.
• Support Local Businesses: Purchasing handmade souvenirs, dining at family-run restaurants, or hiring local guides contribute to the islands’ economy.
8. Best Times to Visit
• April to June: Mild weather, blooming flowers, and fewer tourists make spring a perfect time.
• July to August: Peak season with warmer temperatures—ideal for swimming, but expect crowds, higher accommodation costs, and limited ferry space on weekends.
• September to October: Pleasant weather lingers, but the tourist flow starts to wane, allowing you to enjoy calmer shores and shorter queues.
• November to March: Off-season, with chilly and windy conditions. Ferry cancellations can occur, but if you enjoy solitude, this period offers a unique, mist-shrouded beauty.
9. Sample Itinerary for a Day Trip
1. Morning Ferry: Catch an early ferry from Kabataş or Bostancı to Büyükada. Enjoy the scenic journey as you pass smaller islands along the way.
2. Cycle or Electric Car Tour: Arrive on Büyükada and rent a bicycle or hire an electric taxi for a short island tour. Stop by the Splendid Palace Hotel and snap photos of the grand, historic mansions.
3. Hike to Aya Yorgi Church: Visit the monastery perched atop the island’s second hill for panoramic views. Reward yourself with a light lunch or refreshing drink at the café near the church.
4. Afternoon Ferry to Heybeliada: Spend a couple of hours walking around the Naval Cadet School grounds (where accessible) and see the impressive architecture. Relax at one of the island’s waterfront cafes.
5. Return to Istanbul: Catch a late afternoon or early evening ferry back. Watch the sun set behind Istanbul’s iconic skyline, capping off a day filled with scenic beauty and historical wonder.
10. Frequently Asked Questions
1. Are the Princes’ Islands worth visiting if I only have a short stay in Istanbul?
Absolutely. Even a half-day trip to Büyükada can give you a refreshing change of pace from mainland Istanbul.
2. How do I pay for the ferry?
You can use Istanbul’s public transport card (Istanbulkart) or buy single-use tickets at the pier. Check up-to-date schedules, especially in off-peak seasons.
3. Are there any language barriers?
Most ferry staff and some island residents speak at least basic English. Signage, however, is often in Turkish. Carry a phrasebook or use a language translation app if needed.
4. Is it possible to visit multiple islands in one day?
Yes. You can hop between two or three islands using the inter-island ferry, though you might feel rushed. If you have the time, consider dedicating a full day to just one or two islands to truly absorb the atmosphere.
5. Is it safe to swim around the islands?
Generally, yes, in designated beach areas. Be mindful of currents and always follow local safety instructions.
6. Is there an entrance fee to the monasteries or historical sites?
Many churches and monasteries don’t charge an entrance fee, but donations are often appreciated to maintain these historic properties.
11. Insider Tips
• Weekday Visits: If possible, plan your trip on a weekday rather than a weekend or public holiday. You’ll avoid crowds and enjoy a more peaceful experience.
• Early Start: Catch the first ferry to maximize your time on the islands and beat the mid-day heat in summer.
• Local Markets: Some islands hold small marketplaces on certain days, offering fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, and local pastries. Ask around or check local notices.
• Umbrella and Sunscreen: The islands can get hot and sunny. Bring sun protection, comfortable walking shoes, and water to stay hydrated.
• Photography: The islands are a dream for photography enthusiasts. Early mornings and sunsets provide the best light for capturing the wooden mansions, cobblestone streets, and panoramic sea views.
12. Conclusion
The Princes’ Islands—an archipelago with roots in Byzantine intrigue and Ottoman splendor—present an enchanting counterpoint to Istanbul’s metropolitan bustle. From the grand mansions of Büyükada to the serene pine forests of Heybeliada, each island weaves its own historical and cultural narrative. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or just someone in need of a peaceful retreat by the sea, Adalar offers an unforgettable journey through time and beauty.
Key Takeaways
• Diverse Heritage: Explore centuries of religious and cultural history through monasteries, churches, and Victorian-era homes.
• Tranquility: The absence of private cars offers a rare chance to experience near-total calm, punctuated only by bicycle bells and the hum of electric carts.
• Ease of Access: A short ferry ride from Istanbul, with scenic maritime views that set the tone for the day.
• Year-Round Allure: Each season has its own charm—from lively summer beach days to the tranquil, misty winters.
If you’re planning a trip to Istanbul and want to venture beyond the classic spots like the Hagia Sophia or the Grand Bazaar, look no further than the Princes’ Islands. Their scenic vistas, storied past, and relaxed atmosphere make for an unforgettable excursion—one that will likely become a highlight of your Turkish adventures. So hop on a ferry, leave the urban frenzy behind, and discover these gems in the Sea of Marmara, where history mingles with leisure, and time slows to the gentle rhythm of island life.
